From Corporate Sydney to Valpolicella
The first time I ate at Groto de Corgnan in 1999, I didn’t speak Italian. I didn’t know what Valpolicella was, not really. I just knew that the food was unlike anything I’d eaten before, and that the man cooking it – Giorgio Soave – put something into every plate that I didn’t have a word for at the time.
For sixteen years, it was the place I came back to when I wanted to remember what food was supposed to feel like. In 2015, while celebrating my husband’s 50th birthday at that same table, Giorgio told me he was retiring and closing the restaurant. I heard myself say: “I’ll come. I’ll help you keep it open. Just teach me everything.”
Learning to Cook, Learning to Be a Local
I moved to Valpolicella. Giorgio taught me his recipes, his techniques, and his suppliers – the farmers, cheesemakers, and winemakers in the hills around Sant’Ambrogio who had been part of his kitchen for thirty years. In 2017, I bought Groto de Corgnan.
A few years later I opened my second restaurant: Vista Lago Loncrino, perched above Torri del Benaco on Lake Garda. Running two restaurants means accumulating a decade of deep, direct relationships with the producers, winemakers, and local guides who make this region extraordinary.
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